Tuesday, November 25, 2008

Never Ending Story V14 / 8B+

I climbed this Amazing boulder when i was in Europe in 2007. The bloc is in Magic Wood in Switzerland. Enjoy

video

Sunday, November 23, 2008

QLD bouldering


Teegs bouldering


Me bouldering



Me bouldering with fresh Tattoo

Im still in Qld working not much news to report. I hurt my finger two weeks ago now and thats starting to get better now. On the weekend we stumbled upon this little bouldering area on the Gold Coast so we had a little climb. Hopefully ill be heading home soon to start training.

Friday, October 31, 2008


Working in QLD
I'm still in QLD working. I've been up here for nearly 3 months now saving money up for my trip. Me and Teegan have booked our tickets for our next trip and I'm psyched. We leave early January for an 8 month climbing trip. First stop is USA to boulder for just under two months and then we will be heading to Europe where we hope to rent a place in Innsbruck (Austria), after 5 months in Europe we are heading to South Africa to sample the Rock lands. Cant wait its gonna be mega.
So for now its just Training Training Training with a bit of work chucked in. Ill be back in Sydney in another few weeks to do some more training/working before we hit the road.
See ya out there amigo's

Monday, August 4, 2008

Update At Last


Me doing Logical Progression V13 FA. photo Duncan Brown
I have not written for a while but I have been climbing lots. I have been to Nowra for a few days and I climbed some routes that I have always wanted to climb but never got around to doing. They include Still Life With A Chalk Bag (2nd pitch) grade 25/26, Beef Miester grade 32 and a flash of Vehicle Of Hate grade 28. I have also been Bouldering in Bungonia Gorge with a good crew of guys and managed to do a new problem called Steak and chips basically a one move V11. I have been bouldering in Sydney as well and managed to get up a few new lines. On the weekend I went to Crumbly and I managed to do th FA of the extension to Abacus. The extension adds five more moves and ends high up on a jug I called the new boulder Logical Progression and graded it V13/8B. After a quick rest I did the FA of another new line. The other new line does another Existing problem Called Flegm but finishes at the same point as Logical Progression I also graded it V13/8B and called it Progressive Aggression. My mate Ren got both the new boulders on Video so ill try and get them up here soon.

Saturday, July 12, 2008

Good times in Nowra

The cold weather is finally here and it was time to start hitting Nowra so on the weekend i headed down to Nowra with Sam berry and Nathan Harowell to try a project. I wanted to try the Extension to a existing rout called Crenshaw boulevard 30/31 I had worked out the moves the week before and i hoped to climb it this weekend and i was lucky enough to do just that so now the route goes all the way to the top of the cliff. I called the new route Hats And Hoods and graded it 33/8c. on the same weekend in Nowra there was an event called 24 hours of power heres the write up from the event

The following txt is from www.nowrarocks.blogspot.com

It was hard to find a car park at Thompson's Point last weekend and the walls were packed with climbers enjoying the stone. Over at the Creek, the South Central car park was packed until well after dark on Saturday as climbers squeezed in that last route of the day. 24 Hours of Power at Nowra was conceived as a way get climbers on the rock, meeting, talking, sharing and building the sense of community that is a wonderful aspect of our sport. The competitive part of the weekend was a sideline to the real business of hanging out, but it did provide many exciting and amusing moments.

The overall points winner was Jan Zbranek whose twenty routes included ascents of Dungeon Master 31, Pimp Behind the Wheels 30, a few 29s and 28s and a stack of routes in the mid 20s. In second place and best Aussie effort was Matt Adams who managed to haul himself up Frosty 29, Ain't No Sunshine 28 and plethora of other classics. Third place went to renaissance man Graham Fairbairn and fourth place to Andi Richardson who managed his 20 routes in a massive one day effort on Saturday (he had to work Sunday) fueled by energy gels and sports drinks. Andi's day culminated in an inspired ascent at 7:30 pm of Come Poo with Me 24 at South Central with his headtorch on and his arms cramping badly! Best Female in the points category was Phoebe (sorry Phoebe, I didn't get your surname!)

In the volume competition Malin Hannu was clear winner in the female division climbing 34 routes, visiting 3 crags, and managing to get lost on the tourist track at Hospital Rocks on Saturday night! The volume male winner was Marcus Loane who bounced out of his car at 6 am on Saturday morning with his harness already on, teamed up with Malin and didn't stop all weekend. Marcus climbed 42 routes, cut new tracks (accidently) at The Lair and still managed to fit in few games of bowling on Saturday night!

In the juniors, Brittany Fletcher took out the female event doing nearly as many routes over the weekend as she has done on rock before in her life! Nick Wagland took home the cake for the best junior male after the stout effort of catching the train down from Coffs Harbour to attend!

A cake was awarded to Jason Piper and Matt Pascoe for the strongest start. These hardcore, psyched lads cranked out Cowboy Junkies 25 by headtorch at 6 am on Saturday to start and were the last ones in on Sunday arvo as they tried to squeeze one more route in!

The cake for 'living up to the routes name' went to Luke Geelan who was on his last route of the day on Sunday, long after his arms had given up. At the top of Fist Full of Steel, with the rope out and nothing left in the tank he snatched the chain and avoided the death plummet. Better to live to fight another day!

The trivia competition was won by Graham Fairbairn and Andrew Bull who should know a thing or two about Nowra climbing history!

Another highlight of the weekend were Wendy Walker making the first ascent of Baby Conehead, a new three star 21 at The Hood, to the right of Girls In the Hood. This route now holds the Nowra record for having the most repeats in its first day, receiving 10 ascents! As the name suggests it's just like Coneheads only littler and easier! It climbs an over hung corner before launching out onto a steep face!!

Unable to participate in the 24 Hours of Power competition due to time constraints, but still keen to be part of the action, Chris Webb-Parsons made it down on the Saturday and made the first ascent of what is now the hardest route at South Central, and Nowra's first 33 (although we do have a 34)! Hats and Hoods is an extension to Crenshaw Boulevard adding a burly boulder on top of this already solid route.

Chris Wallace (Wobblebunns) had what he has declared to be his proudest sporting moment ever when he decimated the field in the old boys ten pin bowling session, not once, but twice. In a flawless display he decided to try some spin and reaped the rewards!

Carlie and I would like to say a huge thank you to everyone who came to Nowra last weekend and climbed, hung out, talked, encouraged and generally added to the fantastic atmosphere at the crags. Thanks to all the climbers who participated in this fun style of competition in the light-hearted way in which it was intended. A huge thank you to Big John for donating the sausages and rolls and manning the BBQ on Sunday evening to make sure the climbers were well fed afterwards. We learnt a lot and look forward to doing it again next year in new improved way!

Saturday, June 28, 2008

Mountains Session

After climbing indoors at the comp on the weekend it was time to get outdoors and climb. I went to see my mate Ben Cossey for breakfast and some general chit chat about Climbing Rocks, Guitar playing and Life. It was then time to stop talking about Climbing Rocks and actually go and do it. So I went to Mini HaHa for a wee boulder. I wanted to try a problem called Missing Sync 8A+/V12. The problem is sooo rad it was first climbed by the ever strong Garth Miller a few years ago and it has what I believe to be some of the coolest and best moves and holds in the Blue Mountains. I had tried the problem before but I had never tried the boulder when the conditions were good and today although the sun was still on the wall the holds felt better than I had ever felt them before and after a while trying to figure out how to climb this amazing problem I had the last hold in my hand and was a very happy chapy.

First Block Climbing Centre Comp


The First competition at the Block climbing centre was held on the weekend it was the NSW State Tittles. There was a good turn out to the comp and the gym had a really good vibe with live Music from the very talented Matty J Baker and his mate Brendan, well done lads you guys are unreal to listen to.
Mark Edwards and Sam Berry the owners of the gym have done a really good job with there gym and it’s a pleasure to climb on such good walls and good holds.
I was not feeling the best in the comp but I did managed to take out first place, but only just as Tom(the butcher)Farrell was Cranking. It all came down to the last problem, I managed to climb it second shot securing 1st place. It is funny after travelling and climbing in much bigger and stronger comps I felt more nervous in this comp than any other maybe its cause your climbing in front of your home crowd? I’m so stupid sometimes :)

Monday, June 9, 2008

Deep Blue Sea

Deep Blue Sea V13/8B
My dog Annie telling me good work after climbing Deep Blue Sea

Since I got back 4 days ago I have been climbing almost every day but yesterday I had a really good day as I went to a new crag in manly I think it was found by Phil Staples? The main cave that I bouldered in was pretty small but the rock quality was really good and the position of the cave is perfect it’s about 10metres from the ocean and if you are keen you could have a boulder and catch your lunch at the same time.
The line out the middle of the cave was still a project and it is a perfect line with about 8 moves in the roof to 5 moves on the head wall. It took me and mark Edwards a while to figure out how it would work but when we figured it out it was time to have a shot I climbed the new line pretty fast calling it Deep Blue Sea I think it V13/8B but a nice and solid one. So go and have a go and tell me what you think?

Back in Home

My bed for the night in the airport

I’m Back in Australia after 2 months in Europe. When I arrived back I was tired and a little sick from all the travelling we did as we had such a mission. We left Innsbruck on Tuesday morning to drop the car off in Munich in Germany then got on a plane and flew to Vienna back in Austria and we had to find some place to sleep for the night as our flight left at 9 30pm the next night, so we found an emergency exit stairwell in the airport and slept there for the night (well tried to sleep anyway). The next day we waited and waited and waited for our flight to finally be called and finally at 930pm that night we boarded our flight and headed home to Australia via Korea where we had to wait for another 5 hours so after 3 and a half days of travelling we finally arrived home to Oz.
Back in Australia a lot has been happening mark Edwards and Sam berry opened there new bouldering gym called The Bloc Climbing Centre and its really really good lots of fresh new holds and great walls with many different angles and shapes. So now between The Pitch and The Bloc I now have the best indoor bouldering in Australia close to my home so I hope now I can get stronger and stronger.

Back to ZT for last day bouldering

Dave, Me and Zlu in the Zillertal

Back to the Zillertal for one last boulder session with one of my best mates Zlu.
I wanted to do one boulder before I left Europe to head back to Australia. I had seen photos of this amazing problem called El Gauhara 8A. I wanted to flash the problem but stuffed it up but I managed to climb the problem pretty fast so that was cool. Any way after we did some easyer problems we drove back to Innsbruck for a BBQ and bon fire with some of the great people that made this trip a good one. My time in Europe has been really good I have meet some great people seen some wonderful things, climbed in some great places and learnt a lot about my climbing and have a good idea of what I need to improve on for the world cups next year. Thanks to every one who made this trip possible

World Cup

We left Innsbruck in the morning in convoy with the Austrian team and we arrived at Grindelwald in fine time and we decided to spend the night sleeping out on the street and surprise surprise I had a really bad night sleep and felt like shit in the morning I went straight into isolation and tried to catch up on some sleep in there. My turn to climb came around after a few hours stuck in isolation and I still felt like rubbish I went out on the first boulder and flashed it but I felt terrible. problem number two had a really nails mantle in it and I got my ass kicked problem three was better and I should of flashed it but my heel popped of and I fell after a few more shots due to my foot slipping again, I eventually toped the bloc, problem four was crazy I got the zone hold but could not even come close to getting the next hold and no climber did any better than me on this boulder it was set much to hard, problem five was I really crap problem with I got the zone hold but could not get much further as I felt shit. I think I could have done a lot better if I did not feel so bad but I will have to wait for next year to find out if I can do any better now. In regards to the route setting for the comp I thought it was some of the worst route setting I had ever seen and climbed on as did a lot of other competitors in the comp I hope next year they will do a better job. So as I did not make the semi finals I went to magic wood and had a nice day of bouldering in this amazing forest I did not climb to much but did manage to flashed snow storm 7C+/8A so that was cool.

Sunday, May 25, 2008

Verraze and back to the Zillertal

Well we are back in Innsbruck now but we have been in Italy for a week staying with Christian Core and Stella. We had one day climbing in Verraze as the rain just did not stop but we had a really good time, the place is really cool. Thanks to Chris and Stella for letting us stay and showing us around. So as the rain did not stop in Italy we headed back to the Zillertal for some Austrian bouldering at its best. We camped in the Zillertal over night and we awoke to clear skys RAD, so we headed to a wild boulder called FM4 8A\V11 this problem is sooo good i tried it once before but we could not figure out how to climb it but this time we figured out some trick beta and fired it before we lost too much skin. Next we went to the Zillergrund Forest and i wanted to try a project that i had seen last time i was there, its a really cool line two really hard moves leads to 6 more moves that are not very hard but you could blow it for sure. I climbed the new problem pretty fast and called it Purring Puma i think it is 8B+\V14 but time will tell after the new problem was done i went to try one more boulder for the day, Pressure Drop 8A\V11, and i managed to do that pretty fast as well so all up it was a pretty good day. I'll get some photos up soon See Ya

Wednesday, May 14, 2008

Mammut Boulder Cup 2nd place

On the weekend i competed in the Austrian Boulder comp held in Innsbruck.
The comp was held over two days, the first day was the qualification for the semi finals where only 20 competitors would progress to the semis. I qualified in 4th place. The next day was the semi finals where only 6 guys would go into the finals, I qualified in 3rd place securing a place in the finals. Next up the Finals, the market place where the finals where held was packed out with a couple thousand spectators watching on. The field in the finals was strong and included David Lama, Killian fishuber, Zlu Haller, Emi moosburger, tom nyer and me. we had 4 boulder problems to try and complete and they where really great to climb on and great for the crowd to watch. I topped out on 3 out of 4 problems but that was enough to take out 2nd place in the comp so I am really happy with how I went. I hope i can peform well in the next comp in Grindelwald in Switzerland.

Saturday, May 10, 2008

Still In Europe And Loving It

well im back in Innsbruck again for a wee rest but mainly to boulder in the Zillertal as its getting to hot for Ticino and magic wood. I have only had one rest day since 28th april and my fingers are always bleeding. I have been meeting and climbing with soo many cool chaps and lases and its been really nice.
since the 28th april I have climbed
4- V13\8B
7- V12\8A+
4- V11\8A (two of these are flashes)
and many more easyer problems.
Now i am finally feeling strong again so I am really happy. Its getting really hot here now so i will boulder in the Zillertal for a while. Ill keep u posted on my doings over the next little while.
Have a nice day

Tuesday, April 22, 2008

Ticino

After the comp me and dave headed back to chironico.
we arived the day after the world cup to find alot of the blocs were wet wet wet.
i just wanted to try one thing before the weather started to rain down again, and that was The Great Shark Hunt 8B/V13, I had tryed the problem breifly before with Killian and Jorg but walked away as i was really tired. This time the problem was wet so i got my chalk and a towel and tried to dry it as much as i could but it was still wet i had a shot anyway and i fell on the top of the boulder because my hands and feet were slipping so much, but egged on by dave i sat down chalked up my hands and had one more shot and found myself standing on top of the boulder and it was just in time as the heavens opened up and it started to rain again.
We desided to drive to Magic Wood in hope that the weather would be better there but when we arived the weather was even worse so we drove back to Innsbruck to go training and wait till the weekend for the good weather. I am finally starting to feel stronger again after my finger injury so i hope i can climb some cool blocs soon
see ya

world cup in Hall

Well the world cup has been and gone
The first world cup for 2008 was held in Austria, Hall and the turn out was massive.
This was my first world cup and i did not have any idea of how i would go. I did preety shit but when i sat around and watched the other climbers after my rounds i noticed that even some of the best climbers that have stood on a podium in a world cup befor did not even make the semi finals. So even though my result in my first world cup was not the best i know i could do alot better in the future and i have lernt sooo much just from this one comp

Thursday, April 17, 2008

World Cup Tomorrow

Well the First World Cup is tomorrow in Hall Austria.
There is 144 competitors so it should be a huge event.
my finger is well on its way to being strong again but after climbing as much as i can leading up to the comp im still feeling a little sogy so i hope in another 2/3 weeks ill be back to where i was but its all good as im having a good time.
After the comp we will head back to Ticino in switzerland for some fresh blocking.
see ya later aligator

Tuesday, April 15, 2008

A wee photo for the kids

shadow fax 8B
photo by Dave Pearson

Wednesday, April 9, 2008

In Europe


Magic Boulder in the Zillertal



Cony and Zlu and Dave in the Zillertal


street near our house at 6am due to jet lag


Our flat where we are staying is just behind these building so nice to wake up to mountains


A roof in Innsbruck at 6am

We are finally in Europe. We are living in Innsbruck for one or two months. We went bouldering yesterday to the Zillertal and it was cold cold cold so much snow but im looking out the window right now and the snow is already melting. I climbed my first boulder in Europe for 08 and my first boulder in the Zillertal yesterday it is called schimpansenbaby 8a+/V12 i climbed it pretty fast so that was cool, it is the most amazing bloc really powerfull but tricky aswell. Its raining in Ticino now so we are waiting till the weekend to go and climb some swiss blocs cant wait. I still have one more week untill the first boulder world cup so i better go do some more climbing see ya all.......

Sunday, March 30, 2008

One week to go

battle of the bulge

well i will be leaving for europe this weekend.
Ill be flying to Austria with my mate dave and renting a flat in Innsbruck for a while.
My finger is feeling heaps better now a little weak still but im trying to train as much as i can befor i go.
I have even been on the rock a bit latly and everything is starting to feel good again.
I hope i will be in good enough shape to go in the first world cup in Hall, Austria.

Thursday, March 20, 2008

Never Ending Story 8B+

I climbed this Amazing boulder when i was in Europe in 2007. The bloc is in Magic Wood in Switzerland. It was first climbed by Chris Sharma and it has only seen 4 repeats including me. Enjoy

video

Saturday, March 15, 2008

More pics to come but one for now

Ill get more pics up soon but for now
here is a pic of my wife Teegan Parsons on Happy Camper in the Grampians.
photo by Marcus Valin

Europe coming but little problems coming to

Well I was training really hard and I was feeling in really good shape but the other day while I was bouldering I strained my A2 pulley in my ring finger I have been to Dr Julian saunders and he seems to think it will heal in time for my trip in April 5th so thats great but it means I will probally be out of shape for the world cup in Hall (Austria) but we will have to see what happens.The 2nd round of the bouldering series was held at the pitch climbing Gym on the weekend and I was not able to compete due to my finger but the comp was a great success with about 150 people showing up to have a boulder.
In the mens Open
Tom Farrell was first followed very close by Marc Edwards and then in third was Alan Pryce.
In the Open woman
Sam Berry berry comfortably took First place followed by Christina Bedard and Carly LeBreton for third.
Congrats goes to The Pitch for running the comp and a shout out to Nathan Harowell for all his efforts in getting the series going again.
Ill keep ya posted with the finger strain.

Tuesday, February 26, 2008

Bouldering series Round 1

Well the first round of the bouldering series has come and gone. The comp was held at The Climbing Centre in Penrith and had a really good turn out and the gym was pumping. To qualify into the finals you had to climb 5 boulders and hope those problems had a big enough point score to get into the finals. I qualified in first place going into the finals tied with Marc Edwards and Alan Pryce. In the finals we had 5 boulders to try and climb and we had 5 mins on each on to try and climb it. The problems were really powerful and only two out of the five were completed. I ended up coming 1st followed very closely by Marc Edwards for the 2nd Place Alan Pryce came 3rd. Thanks to my Sponsors Climb On, Scarpa & Black Diamond for there support.

Monday, January 21, 2008

WorkWorkWork


Man so much work and not enough climbing.
I have been working allot and i have been trying to train but i just can't train properly after work, but its either train allot and not be able to afford to go to Europe or work and be a little bit weaker than i could be and go to Europe??? Looks like I'm going to Europe!!! I have booked my tickets (well Good) for the beginning of April

Thursday, January 3, 2008

Happy New Year

Happy New Year
So I have not written anything in a while because not allot has been happening. Christmas has come and gone and its another new year.
So this year I have some plans and the biggest one is to go to Europe and compete in the bouldering world cups. The first one is in Austria in April so let the training begin!!!!

Climb On will be supporting me this year and thanks to them and my other sponsors Scarpa & Black Diamond I now have a chance of achieving my goal of placing in a world cup.
You can find Links to my sponsors Web pages on the front page of my blog.